Doctor Octopus

Read the comic featuring Doctor Octopus: "Broken Machine Thingie"

Before the movie Spider-man 2, I was not that big of a fan of Dr. Octopus. That pot belly and bowl-cut were pretty unintimidating for a villain. Of course the movie version changed that, bringing him to life like I never imagined possible. Even his tentacles each got a personality! Anyways, this all led up to me wanting to do a pseudo-movie version by taking some elements of classic Doc Ock and streamlining them. I chose a TNA Sting as my base figure (which has ridiculous articulation) with the tentacles from a Spider-man Origins Dr. Octopus. I sculpted the harness on his chest with FIXIT and various fodder. His goggles are actually flat-head screws that are screwed into his skull and then the rest of the goggle is sculpted around it. The figure is a good size and fits in with Marvel Legends figures. On his base his tentacles can reach 12 inches high! His base was made from a ton of fodder and is suppose to be some strange machine he would have built, turned on its side with a chunk missing... no doubt from a previous battle with the webslinger. There are two mounting pegs on the base that fit holes in his boots so he can be attached to the base and posed.

Paints used:
- Testors Model Master Acryl Black
- Testors Model Master Acryl Gunmetal
- Testors Model Master Acryl Raw Umber
- Testors Model Master Acryl Euro I Gray
- Games Workshop Citadel Mithril Silver
- Games Workshop Citadel Scorpion Green
- Games Workshop Citadel Goblin Green
- Games Workshop Citadel Snot Green
- Games Workshop Citadel Elf Flesh

Doc Ock was first basecoated in Goblin Green, washed in Snot Green, then drybrushed in Scorpion Green. His boots, coat, and arms were painted black then lightly drybrushed in Euro Gray to give them a really worn look. His tentacles and harness with basecoated Gunmetal then drybrushed Mithril Silver. His hair is black with Raw Umber highlights and his skin is Elf Flesh. The base was spraypainted Krylon Flat Black then Mithril Silver was used for weathering, although I ended up using far more metal flavors for different parts. The figure has been sealed with Krylon Acrylic Sealer (flat) because he has so many points of articulation that needed to be protected from paint rub.